TECHNIQUES & TERMINOLOGY 

DESIGN FEATURE

The main DECORATION part of a jewelry item.  Example: A pendant will have a bail attached to the design feature .

STATEMENT PIECE

The first thing people notice about an outfit.  Most commonly, it takes the form of jewelry, accessory, or wardrobe item. 

What a person chooses as a statement piece is determined by how they want to present themselves to their world.  

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           Techniques: 

OVERLAY

A design feature is made by soldering two layers of metal.  The top layer has the design is pierced with a coping saw.  The bottom layer is sheet metal and the two layers are soldered together.

FABRICATION

The process of building an item by cutting, bending, or assembling sheet, wire, or other raw materials, into a design feature.  

CASTING

The item which is a result of using the “lost wax casting” method to create an item.

In lost wax casting, liquid metal is poured into a mold of a desired shape.

COLD JOIN

Method to connect two elements of a design feature without soldering the join.

RIVETED

Cold join method which involves using a peg to attach two parts of a design feature.  The peg is inserted and then the metal is flattened on the backside to keep the peg in place and secure the two pieces.

PIERCING

Using a coping saw to cut out a design in a sheet of metal

EMBOSSING

Create a raised front surface texture by pressing the metal from  the backside of the metal.

 

           Types of Stone :

CABOCHON

Gem Material is cut, shaped, and polished into a domed shape with a flat back.

INTARSIA

Lapidary technique combining different types or colors of stone to form geometric designs.  Each type is glued to the others.  Then the whole combination is ground, polished and shaped into one cabochon.

FACETED STONES

Gem stones are cut with flat faces on geometric shapes.  These surfaces of the stone facilitate refraction of light for the gem.

 

          Stone Setting Methods:  

BEZEL MOUNT

Method to set stones.  The bezel is the rim which encompasses and fastens a jewel, crystal, lens, or object.  The bezel is soldered to a base plate of metal.

PRONG SETTING

Use of metal projections which secure a gemstone.  Faceted stones are frequently set with prong settings in order to secure the stone in the setting.

 

           Terminology:

FINDING

Parts used to join jewelry components.  A finding may be used to finish off a piece of jewelry, or it may be a specially designed part used in construction of a piece.  Examples: Ear wires, cones, pin clasps, spacer bars, chain, etc.

BAIL

Attachment device in jewelry.  A bail is a component used to attach a pendant to a necklace.

SLIDE

Design feature that has a large diameter bail, or multiple bails, which fit over the necklace.  The bail(s) are attached to the design feature.

ENHANCER

Hinged bail designed to open up for easy insertion of the necklace.  It is then closed in order to secure the necklace in place.

CONES

One type of finding which is used at both ends of a necklace strand to finish it. 

END CAPS

An alternative finding to a cone used to finish off the ends of bead strands or necklaces.

EXTENDER CHAIN

Short length of chain added to a necklace strand to give the option of additional length when needed.

LOBSTER CLASP

Type of trigger fastener that is held closed by a spring.  

BALL POST

An earring finding.  This style incorporates a ball bead decoration and a stem which is inserted into the hole in the earlobe.  It is secured with an ear nut in order to keep an earring in place. 

EARWIRE

Type of earring finding which incorporates a hook that is inserted through the hole of the earlobe.

 

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Abbreviations: 

PD=Pendant ; ER=Earrings ;  NK=Necklace ;  SS=Sterling Silver ;  BR=Bracelet ; Rnd=Round ; SQ=Square ; mm=millimeter ; Ga=Gauge

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